Heras Hoops

Fiber artist specializing in embroidery, macramé, and crochet décor and wearables.



General Instructions for Embroidery

Learning something new can be intimidating, and though embroidery is an easy beginner friendly hobby, there is a small learning curve. Thus I’ve put together some general instructions to make it all a bit easier.

LEARNING STITCHES

Throughout the instructions, I will include the names of the stitches you’re using. If needed, you can use these to look up tutorials if you are having trouble understanding. I know I learn a lot better while I’m watching and doing, rather than reading. Don’t let it frustrate you! You can also check out my Instagram @HerasHoops, on the main page or reels section, you’ll see short videos I’ve uploaded for each design option in the kit. If you are interested in continuing embroidery, I highly recommended checking out the Instagram account @Hopebroidery on Instagram (the same on YouTube) for cute simple tutorials anyone can follow. That’s how I got started!

STRANDS

Commonly I will refer to “strands” in every step. Embroidery thread is actually made with 6 strands of thread twisted together. Sometimes this is too thick and I will half this to 3 strands for more delicate parts. You can use any amount, but for this I will only use 6 and 3 strands. There a few ways to separate thread, but for simplicity I will split them for you. If you ever need to separate them yourself, the easiest way is to pull out one strand at a time. Hold your thread at the top and slowly pull a piece straight up. It may help to make a fist to hold your thread here. As you pull, your thread below will start to bunch up below and look scary. Don’t worry, as long as you’re pulling slowly, nothing should get knotted. After your single thread is pulled out, you should be able to gently pull down on the bunch to straighten it back down before pulling your next. Do this for however many threads you need, less is best for more detail.

THREADING

Thread your needle by inserting the metal loop of the threader through the needles eye, pull a small bit of your thread though this loop before pulling the loop and thread back through the eye. Do this extremely slow and gingerly at the start to not snap any strands or your threader. You may need to wiggle the threader up and down a bit before it pulls through. Unlike in sewing, in embroidery you won’t typically double your thread over before knotting it. You’ll use one strand (or group of strands usually) knotted at one end, with the last couple inches of the other end trailing down from your needle. This seemed so wrong to me at first because the threads obviously going to come out with enough tug. Part of the process is making sure to not pull your needle out of the thread with every stitch. This is easier if keep a grip on both the thread and needle as you pull, but having to rethread is inevitable. Sometimes I have to do it several times a project. Don’t let it discourage you, just breathe and keep stitchin!

KNOTTING

Starting

Knotting the end of your strand initially is as simple as it sounds. You can also wrap the end of the thread around your needle once or twice and pull the needing through these wrappings and it will create a knot. This is especially helpful when using a small amount of strands, as you will likely need to wrap the thread a few times to ensure the knot is big enough. For this project though, a normal knot should work for both 6 and 3 strands.

Ending

Knotting in the back when you’re nearing the end of your thread can be a bit more complex. It can be hard to make the regular knot close enough to the fabric so the last stitch doesn’t loosen. I have a couple tricks. For this I like to run my needle under a nearby stitch to anchor it and back through the loop before pulling it all the way through in a knot. Do this a couple times to be safe. You can also use an extra needle to anchor your knot by inserting it halfway into the hole of the last stitch, tie the knot around the needle and pull down the thread to tighten. You should be able to watch the knot go down the needle as it tightens close to the bottom. Take the needle out and keep your finger on the knot to pull the thread and tighten the rest of the way. If you have trouble with this, you can find other ways to knot online, this is just what works for me. Don’t worry about it being perfect.

LOADING THE HOOP

If necessary, use the screw at the top to loosen and separate the two hoops. Place your fabric on and center it over the inner hoop. Using a flat surface, push down the outer hoop over the fabric and inner hoop. Again, loosen the screw if necessary and tighten slightly once everything is interlocked be. You don’t want the outer hoop to be too tight at this point, because now you’re going to flip it over and tug all around the sides of the fabric to tighten it in the hoop. This step is very important to make sure your canvas is smooth for thread painting. Once you’re satisfied your fabric is taught like a drum, tighten the screw the rest of the way and admire your handiwork so far. This is a great start!

RINSING THE STICKER

When rinsing off a fabric sticker, you’ll want to remove the fabric from the hoop as we don’t want the wood and metal getting for too long wet. Use a bowl or sink of warm water and optionally a few drops of detergent. Give it time to soak off a bit and use your hands only to gently rub away any small pieces lingering under stitches. Rinse and dry flat. I’ve found I can make it stick to my walls if I push and spread the fabric out while wet. It’ll stay stuck after it dries completely flat in a few hours. If that makes sense, it might be worth a shot if space is limited. It doesn’t need to be ironed-flat though as you’ll tighten the fabric smooth when it goes back in the hoop anyways.

BACKING

When you’re done you can use your hoop as a frame by hiding or removing the extra fabric. Many people like to cover the stitches and knots in the back as well. We can do both of these in one move with the help of a little circle of cardboard. There are several different methods and variations of finishing off your hoop in the back, but this is definitely one of the easiest while still hiding the back well. You’ll just lay your project face down and gather your fabric in the back toward the middle of the hoop. Lay the cardboard piece over the gathered fabric and push down into place until everything fits snugly.

Don’t forget to sign and date it!


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